DWX is a new class of boat building epoxy. Used for laminating, gluing, fairing, and filling, just like other boat building epoxies, DWX uses a handy 2:1 mix ratio and offers good shear strength and elongation, but this stuff is different. DWX is a high-grade, modified, 100% solids epoxy that contains no VOCs, so it is almost odorless.
Please note that exposure to DWX can potentially lead to skin or respiratory sensitization as well, so users should still take regular precautions to avoid coming in contact with the liquid resin or hardener and breathing dust from sanding.
|Now a 12 oz sample kit is available.
In addition to the benefits above, DWX offers several other advantages over other boatbuilding epoxies. For starters, it has two powerful UV inhibitors built into the formula—resulting in possibly the best UV protection in the industry. This means you don't necessarily have to paint or varnish over a surface coated with DWX (Note: Only apply DWX over bare wood or epoxy). While we don't consider DWX as a substitute for paint or varnish, if you are satisfied with the surface appearance after you have applied DWX, painting or varnishing isn’t mandatory as it is with most boat building epoxies. And even if you do choose to paint or varnish, isn't it nice to know that if the surface coat is rubbed off, your underlying epoxy is UV protected? DWX is extremely clear and finishes to a brilliant shine.
Another strength of DWX is the cure rate. When you mix the resin and our slow hardener, you get an epoxy that has a pot life of around 2 hours at room temperature! This is really handy for time consuming and complicated assemblies such as birdsmouth masts, any parts that have large gluing areas, or laying down long fillets where you want to go back with glass tape before the thickened epoxy has cured at the start of the fillet. With slow hardener, the epoxy will not go into an uncontrolled exothermic reaction and melt your mixing cup. This is ideal for beginners who work slowly or folks who live in hot climates. The slow mix will give you an hour of working time @ 80 degrees and 30 minutes @ 90 degrees.
We think you’re really going to like this product. The slow cure speed alone should make this the epoxy of choice for beginners who need the ability to go slow or folks working in hot conditions in the warmer parts of the world.
And finally, if you have a shop that gets cold in the winter, you will not have to bring DWX inside as it will not crystalize.
I think an epoxy like DWX is long overdue and should only increase in popularity over time...
Since you were kind enough to send me a sample of the fast hardener, I thought I should provide a report.
It is much faster than the regular/slow hardener, and faster than other fast hardener’s I’m used to, I think. Where the slow is still a bit pliable overnight, even when daytime temps are in the 70s, the fast reaches that stage in a couple of hours. But that can be useful. Today I wanted to put on a couple of pieces of tape on something I’m hoping to paint tomorrow. The temp was 88 degrees (!). I applied the tape and recoated with straight epoxy using the fast hardener. The recoating was within about 10 or 15 minutes, once I finished the first coat. The epoxy was on the verge of firing off, but since it was just starting to thicken, that allowed me to get on two initial coats. An hour later, I mixed up another batch and thickened it to “ketchup,” and used that to fill the weave. The pot life of that batch was only about 10 min, but it was just enough to brush like made and get a nice coat on. An hour later, that had dried to the touch and but was still plastic so I could slice off a couple of drips. In all, from nothing to filled tape in two hours, and I’ll be set to paint tomorrow. (You’re probably aware that in contrast, your slow/regular hardener, when thickened, stays useable for at least a few hours, which is very handy when working on a number of joints as I was last weekend, in the mid 70 temps. I think I had the slow pot going for about four hours. Refreshed it a couple of times along the way, and that worked just fine.)
Earlier, on a cooler day, I used it to lay a piece of cloth on a panel. It worked well, smoothed out well, and was ready for the next layer overnight.
One needs to be careful, though. Last week I mixed a slightly larger batch of unthickened epoxy, using the fast hardener. It blew off in about 15 or 20 min (temp was about 75 degrees; I knew I was taking a chance). It started steaming.
I expect I will mix it with the regular/slow hardener at times, 1 squirt of each and two of resin, to achieve a middle ground.
So, thanks for the sample. I’m enjoying it, and enjoying the epoxy in general. It’s very easy to use, forgiving, handy. Thanks much.
My first test of DWX epoxy reveals that it is fantastic for saturating deep into mahogany. The long cure time prevents if gelling before it has soaked into the wood grain.
It has a more pleasant anise (licorice) aroma, not the ammonia of common epoxy.
The longer cure time is not just about the time to gel, but also the full cure process. In one test I flooded the surface of two mahogany seat planks. It took two days in 65 degree garage to harden to the touch, and several more to reach sanding hardness.
I have to adjust my time frame for a project to reflect the extended cure. It can take a few days to harden sufficiently before I would remove the clamps holding together glued lap strakes. And sanding requires even more time.
I have been using epoxy solely for gluing laps, and varnishing the finished hull. But my students prefer to epoxy encapsulate their hulls, and the UV protection built into DWX really helps. Since it does not have to reach full glass hard cure between coats, I don't believe the longer DWX cure time is still comparable with the time needed to fully cure epoxy (washed to remove surface ammonia per Gougeon Bros) and multiple coats of oil varnish.
My testing continues, but I think you have a real winner.
I was successful using DWX UV epoxy in my test run for a forward hatch cover on my hard-decked sailing canoe. The part has 2 layers of carbon fiber on the inside with the topside layer in aluminized fiberglass and the underside layer is a carbon/aramid hybrid fabric. It also has 2 strips of 3/8" divinycell core material for strength, as I will need to be able to stand on the hatch while moving about under sail. So, though small, this was a good test for applying DWX epoxy on various materials using a vacuum infusion process.
Since this is my first attempt at vacuum infusion, I don't have any comparables, but here's what I learned: DWX works. The ambient room temperature was cool, so the material was a little thicker than ideal. It still pulled into the part as shown, but the next part I infuse, I will warm the space and epoxy to room temperature for improved viscosity. I added some radient heat as the part infused, which was much better. The part is still a little soft after about 36 hrs (again in a cool room - in the mid to high 60's) but it released just fine from the mold. I will let it cure for a couple of weeks prior to giving it the "stand-on-the-part-to-see-how-it-deflects" test.
Thanks again for your product and your assistance,
...Wanted to let you know how well yesterday's DWX test went. I mixed two different batches for separate applications on the Garden-designed Eel: one mix was straight with no additives and the other was thickened with wood flour.
Temperature in the cockpit of the boat was 60° when I applied the resin, but two hours later I turned off the shop lights and the shop temperature dropped steadily to this morning's reading of 47°.
Much to my delight, the DWX cured hard overnight, using the Slow hardener you supplied....so the Fast will do even better in our unheated shop.
It was amazing to work with a non-toxic epoxy, so your no-VOC product is much appreciated!
I'll be reviewing DWX's performance in several places, including my Facebook page, and the FB pages of national TSCA and the Pocket Yachters, where I've been posting updates on the Eel restoration.
All the best,
Note that for $195 for DWX vs. $165 for generic marine epoxy (3 gallon kits), I'm switching to the Ducky Poxy as my next epoxy. The advantages (on paper) just outweigh the $30 surcharge.
I'm thrilled at the prospect of NOT having to suit up like somebody working in a nuclear containment dome every time I have to 'pox something. Courtesy of DuckLabs. Dan
I got a quart and a half sample. Instructions said to mix it all so I mixed it all.
Stuff is crystal clear. I stirred it for 3 minutes (2 minutes longer than I ever stir anything else) I used a 1" and 2" chip brush to apply, as well as a spreader to spread it over the big surfaces.
I did not glue anything together with it - I just used it as sealer. It went on pretty well - it was very thick so I would lay down a glob with the 1" brush, spread it with the plastic spreader, then tip it with the 2" brush to even things out. I covered both sides of (2) seats and the entire top decks of the Goose - about 42 sq ft total. Nice, thick coats. In the entire hour and 10 minutes I worked with it, the epoxy did not heat up, did not thicken, and did not smoke - very nice.
In the morning (9am) the epoxy appeared cured - lovely smooth finish. It will require another coat, but I am VERY pleased with it as it stands.
Best of all: I had no allergic reaction. I was gloved up and didn't directly touch either the hardner or the mixed epoxy, but I was breathing the whole time, which is enough for me to break out in a rash when using the Raka product and sometimes Duckworks Marine Economy.
I like the built in UV protection. I think you have a winner.